Pokemon #0162: Furret

Difficulty: 2/5

Happy Halloweeen everybody! Today's pattern is Furret, from Pokemon! Generation II of Pokemon's designs will always be my favorite, and Furret is a great example of that - just look at that face!

I recently made a cat plushie with a long body on commission for a friend’s cosplay, and decided to adapt that pattern (which will be the subject of a future post) to make this Furret doll. It’s long enough to drape over your shoulder or across your desk. Because it’s so long, it’s also a good doll for using up yarn and fabric scraps you have laying around for stuffing - mine is stuffed with a mix of quilting scraps and regular fiberfill.

This pattern is very easy and only uses two yarn colors, but it does require some basic color work that just barely bumps the difficulty up a notch. Be sure to mark your rounds clearly and count carefully as you go, so you don't get mixed up.

Happy crafting!

Materials 


-Yarn. Use a worsted or aran weight in a material of your choice. I use acrylic for my doll patterns due to its firm weave and good structure, but you may use any material you wish. You will need:
For regular Furret: (A) ~200m of cream, (B) ~200m of chocolate brown

For shiny Furret:(A) ~200m of white, (B) ~200m of raspberry pink

-4.0 mm (size G) crochet hook

-Fiberfill or crafting scraps for stuffing


-Yarn needle


-Pins


-Scraps of yarn for round markers

-Materials to make the details on the face using the method of your choice. You can glue or sew on fabric or felt scraps, embroider them on, or needle felt them. I used needle felting with yarn and wool roving in the doll pictured.

Gauge: Gauge is not important for this work. With the given yarn and hook size, the finished doll will stand about 16 inches (41 cm) in length; adjust yarn and/or hook size if a bigger or smaller doll is desired. Just make sure your stitches are of a consistent size and tightness.

 

 

Notation (US crochet)


ch: chain


st: stitch


sc: single crochet


hdc: half-double crochet

dc: double crochet


slst: slip stitch


inc: increase stitch (perform 2 sc in the next stitch)


dc inc: double crochet increase stitch (perform 2 dc in the next stitch)

dec: decrease stitch (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through first loop. Yarn over again, pull through all 3 loops on hook.)

 

 

Pattern
Head (Make 1) 

Work in the round.
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle.
Round 2: inc in each st around (12)
Round 3: *sc in each of next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 4: *sc in each of next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 5: *sc in each of next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 6: *sc in each of next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 7: *sc in each of next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42) 
Change color to B. Begin color work with A and B. 
Round 8: 1 sc B, 10 sc A, 1 sc B, 10 sc A, 1 sc B, 19 sc A. (42)
Round 9: 2 sc B, 7 sc A, 5 sc B, 7 sc A, 2 sc B, 19 sc A (42)
Round 10: 3 sc B, 4 sc A, 9 sc B, 4 sc A, 3 sc B, 19 sc A. (42)
Round 11: 4 sc B, 1 sc A, 13 sc B, 1 sc A, 4 sc B, 19 sc A. (42)
Rounds 12-19: 23 sc B. 19 sc A. (42) Cut off yarn after each color change.
Round 20: With B, dec, 19 sc, dec. Change color to A. Inc, sc in next 17 st, inc. (42)
Round 21: With B, *sc in each of next 5 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. Change color to A, then *sc in each of next 5 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. (36)
Round 22: With B, *sc in each of next 4 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. Change color to A, then *sc in each of next 4 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. (30)*
Round 23: With B, *sc in each of next 3 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. Change color to A, then *sc in each of next 3 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. (24)
Round 24: With B, *sc in each of next 2 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. Change color to A, then *sc in each of next 2 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. (18) Begin to stuff and continue to do so as you work.
Round 25: With B, *sc in each of next st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. Change color to A, then *sc in each of next st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. (12)
Round 26: With B, dec three times. Change color to A, then dec three times. (6)
Round 27: With A, dec around until closed. Finish off, and weave in all loose ends.

Body (Make 1)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12)
Round 3: sc in each st around (12)
Round 4: *sc in each of next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 5: sc in each st around (18)
Round 6: *sc in in each of next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 7: sc in each st around (24)
Round 8: *sc in in each of next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 9: sc in each st around (30)
Round 10: *sc in in each of next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 11: sc in each st around (36)
Round 12: *sc in in each of next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Rounds 13-19: sc in each st around. (42) Change color to B.
Rounds 20-24: sc in each st around. (42) Change color to A.
Rounds 25-29: sc in each st around. (42) Change color to B.
Rounds 30-34: sc in each st around. (42) Change color to A.
Rounds 35-39: sc in each st around. (42) Change color to B.
Rounds 40-44: sc in each st around. (42) Change color to A.
Rounds 45-49: sc in each st around. (42) Change color to B.
Rounds 50-54: sc in each st around. (42) Change color to A. With A, sc in each of next 10 st. Mark the following st as the first of Round 55; this will be the new set point for the start and end of rounds. 
Begin color work,
Rounds 55-64: With B, sc in each of next 23 st. With A, sc in each of next 19 st. (42)
Round 65: With B, dec, sc in each of next 19 st, dec. With A, inc, sc in each of next 17 st, inc. (42)
Round 66: With B, *sc in each of next 5 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. Change color to A, then *sc in each of next 5 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. (36)
Round 67: With B, *sc in each of next 4 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. Change color to A, then *sc in each of next 4 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. (30)*
Round 68: With B, *sc in each of next 3 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. Change color to A, then *sc in each of next 3 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. (24)
Round 69: With B, *sc in each of next 2 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. Change color to A, then *sc in each of next 2 st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. (18) Begin to stuff and continue to do so as you work.
Round 70: With B, *sc in each of next st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. Change color to A, then *sc in each of next st. dec* - repeat from * to * three times. (12)
Round 71: With B, dec three times. Change color to A, then dec three times. (6)
Round 72: With A, dec around until closed. Finish off, and weave in all loose ends.

Ears (Make 2)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With A, 4 sc in starter circle. (4)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (8)
Round 3: sc in each st around. (8)
Begin color work.
Round 4: With A, sc, inc. With B, sc, inc. With A, sc, inc. With B, sc, inc. (12) Finish off A, and continue only with B.
Round 5: sc in each st around (12)
Round 6: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (16)
Rounds 7-8: sc in each st around. (16) ch 1, turn. Begin working in rows.
Row 9: sc in each of next 8 st, starting in 2nd loop from hook. (8) Ch 1, turn.
Ro1 10: sc in each of next 8 st, starting in 2nd loop from hook. (8) Finish off, leaving tail.

Forelegs (Make 2)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With B, 5 sc in starter circle (5)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (10)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (15)
Rounds 4-5: sc in each st around. (15) Change color to A.
Rounds 6-8: sc in each st around. (15) ch 1, turn. Change to working in rows.
Row 9: sc in each of next 6 st. Finish off, leaving tail.

Hindlegs (Make 2)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With A, 5 sc in starter circle (5)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (10)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (15)
Rounds 4-8: sc in each st around. (15) ch 1, turn. Change to working in rows.
Row 9: sc in each of next 6 st. Finish off, leaving tail.

Assembly
1. Sew the open side of the body to the head using a whip stitch. Be sure to align the colored parts of each piece and use matching yarn so they blend seamlessly.

2. Pin and whip stitch the ears to the head and the forelegs and hindlegs to the body. 

3. Add the details to Furret’s face (Eyes, whiskers, mouth) using the method of your choice. I used needle felting and dyed Merino sheep wool to make it in the pictured doll. 

Final Thoughts

If you liked this pattern, please feel free to make it and post on your blog of choice! All I ask is that you please provide credit to me (Danielle Delp) as the pattern author, and if you’re on Ravelry to add your photos to the pattern’s page - the more the merrier! Please do not sell dolls made from this pattern, to respect the intellectual property rights of the original artist that designed the character. If you like my work and would like to support my pattern-making, please consider subscribing to my Patreon or following me on Tumblr! Links to Ravelry, Tumblr, and Patreon are in the About Me section.

Pokemon #0385: Jirachi

Difficulty: 2/5

Happy September everyone! The weather is getting cooler here with the end of summer, and I'm back with a new pattern, Jirachi! I started planning this one back around the Star Festival in July, and took my time putting together the design over my holiday break. It's a doll with a lot of details, but each piece is very straightforward to make and put together. The only tricky bit is getting the star points on the head aligned correctly, but you will be fine if you pin everything carefully before you sew it down. Give it a shot, and make a wish! 

Happy crafting!

 

 

Materials 


-Yarn. Use a worsted or aran weight in a material of your choice. I use acrylic for my doll patterns due to its firm weave which provides some structure, but you may use any material you wish. You will need:
For regular Jirachi: (A) ~100m of white, (B) ~150m of gold, (C) ~50m of cyan

For shiny Jirachi:(A) ~100m of pale red, (B) ~150m of gold, (C) ~50m of red

-4.0 mm (size G) crochet hook

-Fiberfill or crafting scraps for stuffing


-Yarn needle


-Pins


-Scraps of yarn for round markers

-Materials to make the details on the face using the method of your choice. You can glue or sew on fabric or felt scraps, embroider them on, or needle felt them. I used needle felting with yarn and wool roving in the doll pictured.

Gauge: Gauge is not important for this work. With the given yarn and hook size, the finished doll will stand about 9 inches (23 cm) in height; adjust yarn and/or hook size if a bigger or smaller doll is desired. Just make sure your stitches are of a consistent size and tightness.

 

 

Notation (US crochet)


ch: chain


st: stitch


sc: single crochet


hdc: half-double crochet

dc: double crochet


slst: slip stitch


inc: increase stitch (perform 2 sc in the next stitch)


dc inc: double crochet increase stitch (perform 2 dc in the next stitch)

dec: decrease stitch (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through first loop. Yarn over again, pull through all 3 loops on hook.)

 

 

Pattern 
Head and Body (Make 1)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 7: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Round 8: *sc in next 6 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Rounds 9-18: sc in each st around. (48)
Round 19: *sc in next 6 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Round 20: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 21: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 22: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 23: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18) Begin to stuff, and continue to do so as you work.
Round 24: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 25: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 26: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Rounds 27-34: sc in each st around. (36)
Round 35: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 36: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 37: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 38: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Round 39: dec in each st around. (6)
Round 40: Continue to dec until closed. Finish off, and weave in loose ends.

Legs (Make 2)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With A, 4 sc in starter circle. (4)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (8)
Round 3: sc in each st around. (8)
Round 4: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Round 5: sc in each st around. (12)
Round 6: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (16)
Round 7: sc in each st around. (16) ch 1, turn.
Switch to working in rows.
Row 8: sc in 2nd loop from hook. Continue to sc in next 7 st. (8) ch 1, turn.
Row 9: Repeat Row 8. (8) ch 1, turn.
Row 10: dec, starting in 2nd loop from hook. sc in each of next 4 st. dec. (6) Finish off, leaving tail.

Arms (Make 2)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With A, 4 sc in starter circle. (4)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (8)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each st around. (8)
Round 5: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Rounds 6-7: sc in each st around. (12)
Round 8: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (16)
Rounds 9-11: sc in each st around. (16) Flatten the arm and run a sl st along the open edge to seal. ch 4, turn. Switch to working in rows along the edge you just sealed. 
Row 12: sl st in 5th loop from hook. ch4, sl st in next st. ch4, sl st in next st. - this will make Jirachi’s three fingers. Finish off, and leave a tail.

Star points (Make 3)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With B, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: sc in each st around. (12)
Round 4: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 5: sc in each st around. (18)
Round 6: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 7: sc in each st around. (24)
Round 8: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 9: sc in each st around. (30)
Round 10: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 11: sc in each st around. (36)
Round 12: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Round 13: sc in each st around. (42) Finish off, leaving tail. Stuff lightly.

Back panel (Make 1)
Round 1: With B, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 7: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
 

Headdress (Make 2)
Work in the round. 

Round 1: With B, 4 sc in starter circle. (4)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (8)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Rounds 4-7: sc in each st around. (12) Begin to stuff lightly.
Round 8: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (8)
Rounds 9-11: sc in each st around. (8) ch 1, turn. Begin working in rows.
Row 12: sc in each of next 4 st. (4) Finish off, leaving tail.

Cape (Make 2)
Work in rows.
Row 1: With B, ch 3. (3) ch 1, turn.
Row 2: hdc inc, sc, hdc inc. (5) ch 1, turn.
Row 3: hdc in each st across. (5) ch 1, turn.
Rows 4-17: Repeat Row 3.
Row 18: dec, sc, dec. (3) Finish off, leaving tail. 
 

Wishing tags (Make 3)

Work in the round.
Round 1: With C, 4 sc in starter circle. (4)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (8)
Rounds 3-8: sc in each st around. (8)
Round 9: dec in each st around. (4)
Round 10: dec around until closed. Finish off, leaving tail.

Assembly
1. Pin and whip stitch to attach two of the star points to either side of the head, as pictured.

 

2. Pin and whip stitch the third star point on top of the head, overlapping the other two points. It should be sewed off-center from the top of the head, tilted towards the side that will be Jirachi’s front.

 

3. Appliqué or whip stitch the back panel to the back of Jirachi’s head to fill in the space between the star points. Also pin and whip stitch the headdress pieces on to either side of the Jirachi’s face.

 

 

4. Pin and whip stitch to attach the arm and leg pieces to the body, as pictured.

 

 

5. Pin and whip stitch the edge of the cape pieces to Jirachi’s back. 

 

 

6. Sew the wishing tags to the end of each star point.

  

 

7. Add the details on Jirachi’s face (eyes, mouth, facial paint) and belly (eyelid) using your method of choice. I used needle felting with dyed wool in the doll pictured, but you can also make them from cut fiber, felt, etc. - use the method you like best! Note that I made this doll with Jirachi's stomach eyelid closed, but you can also make it with the eye opened if you prefer.

Conclusion 

If you liked this pattern, please feel free to make it and post on your blog of choice! All I ask is that you please provide credit to me (Danielle Delp) as the pattern author, and if you’re on Ravelry to add your photos to the pattern’s page - the more the merrier! Please do not sell dolls made from this pattern, to respect the intellectual property rights of the original artist that designed the character. If you like my work and would like to support my pattern-making, please consider subscribing to my Patreon or following me on Tumblr! Links to Ravelry, Tumblr, and Patreon are in the About Me section.

See you next time!

Pokemon#0012: Butterfree

Difficulty: 4/5

This week’s pattern is Butterfree! One of my original Pokemon favorites, it was actually the first Pokemon card I ever owned. This pattern took some time to put together, mostly because of the wings. I figured out and made every other piece of the doll within a day, but getting the color work on the wings to look good took a full week of trial and error, crocheting and unraveling, testing patterns in the round vs rows, etc. I settled on double crochet in the round with a spiraling pattern for the veins, which also gives a nice texture contrast with the body - Butterfree’s wings are supposed to be covered in dusty scales, after all. It also provides some structure to keep the wings from being too floppy.

A nice little detail I added was working the upper and lower parts of the wings separately, and only sewing them together where they meet the body. This allows the wings to retract when you want the doll to sit down, or when space is limited. I also included a pattern for an optional little scarf accessory.  I decided to whip it up since I had some extra golden yarn laying around. I'm sure the old-school Pokemon fans in the audience will appreciate why =D

 

Happy crafting!

 

 

Materials 


-Yarn. Use a worsted or aran weight in a material of your choice. I use acrylic for my doll patterns due to its firm weave which provides some structure, but you may use any material you wish. You will need:
For regular Butterfree: (A) ~150m of royal purple, (B) ~30m of cyan blue, (C) ~20m of red, (D) ~400m white, (E) ~200m black

For shiny Butterfree: (A) ~150m of lilac purple, (B) ~30m of coral pink, (C) ~20m of neon green, (D) ~400m pale pink, (E) ~200m black.

***If you are making the optional scarf, you will also need (F) ~20m of gold***

-4.0 mm (size G) crochet hook

-Fiberfill or crafting scraps for stuffin


-Yarn needle


-Pins


-Scraps of yarn for round markers

-Materials to make the details on the face using the method of your choice. You can glue or sew on fabric or felt scraps, embroider them on, or needle felt them. I used needle felting in the doll pictured.

Gauge: Gauge is not important for this work. With the given yarn and hook size, the finished doll will stand about 13 inches (33 cm) in height from the top of the wings to the bottom; adjust yarn and/or hook size if a bigger or smaller doll is desired. Just make sure your stitches are of a consistent size and tightness.

 

 

Notation (US crochet)


ch: chain


st: stitch


sc: single crochet


hdc: half-double crochet

dc: double crochet


slst: slip stitch


inc: increase stitch (perform 2 sc in the next stitch)


dc inc: double crochet increase stitch (perform 2 dc in the next stitch)

dec: decrease stitch (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through first loop. Yarn over again, pull through all 3 loops on hook.)

 

 

Pattern

Head and Body (Make 1)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 7: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Round 8: *sc in next 6 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Rounds 9-16 sc in each st around. (48)
Round 17: *sc in next 6 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Round 18: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 19: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 20: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 21: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 22: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 23: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 23: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 24: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Rounds 25-33: sc in each st around. (42)
Round 34: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 35: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 36: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24) Begin to stuff, and continue to do so as you work.
Round 37: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 38: *sc in next st, dec*. Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Round 39: dec in each st around. (6)
Round 40: dec around until closed. (6) Finish off, and weave in loose ends.

Feet (Make 2)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With B, 5 sc in starter circle. (5)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (10)
Rounds 3-11: sc in each st around (10). Add a small amount of stuffing inside the foot.
Round 12: dec in each st around (5)
Round 13: dec around until closed. Finish off, leaving a tail.

Arms (Make 2)
Work in rows.
Row 1: With B, ch 5. (5) ch 3, turn.
Row 2: tc, starting in 4th loop from hook. sl st, tc, sl st, tc. (5) finish off, leaving tail.

Nose (Make 1)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With B, 5 sc in starter circle. (5)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (10)
Round 3: inc in each of next 2 st, sc in each of next 3 st, inc in each of next 2 st, sc in each of next 3 st. (14) Finish off, leaving a tail.

Eyes (Make 2)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With C, 6 sc in starter circle.
Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc. (18)
Round 4: sc in each st around. (18) Finish off, leaving tail.

Upper Wing (Make 2*)
These are made with color work in the round, using strands of D and E that are worked separately; when working with D, drop E and vice-versa. Do not join your rounds - you want the color work to make veins that spiral from the center. Do not finish off either color until the end. Use your color change method of your choice, but try to make it as seamless as possible to maintain the distinction between the different colored sections.

*You will want to make 2 pieces of this pattern. HOWEVER! There are 2 slightly different versions of this pattern that you will work for each piece. The purpose of this is to make the colored spiral of veins turn clockwise in one piece and counterclockwise in the other.
-Version 1: Work with dropped threads towards you, or rather towards the inside of the circle. The outside of the wing will be the “right” side and the inside will be the “wrong,” so plan accordingly when and where you drop your threads.
-Version 2:  Work with dropped threads away from you, or rather towards the outside of the work. The “wrong” side of the wing will be on the outside, and the “right” side will be on the inside, so plan accordingly when and where you drop your threads.

Round 1: With D and E, ch 29. Start with a ch of D, and alternate colors with each ch. - your last ch should be D. Use a sl st to join the last ch with the first to make a loop. The D ch you end in is the last st of Round 1, and the first st of Round 2 will be in an E st. (28 st total; 14 in color D and 14 in color E.)
Round 2: dc in each st around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (28 st total, 14 in color D and 14 in color E)
Round 3: *dc in next st, dc inc* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (42 st total, 28 in color D and 14 in color E)
Round 4: *dc in next st, dc inc in each of following 2 st.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (70 st total, 56 in color D and 14 in color E)
Rounds 5-9: dc in each st around. Use D in D st and E in E st. (70 st total, 56 in color D and 14 in color E)
Round 10: *dc in each of next 2 st, dc inc, dc in next st, dc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches.
(98 st total, 84 in color D and 14 in color E)
Rounds 11-13: dc in each st around. Use D in D st and E in E st. (98)
Rounds 14-15: *dc, sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, dc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (98 st total, 84 in color D and 14 in color E)
Round 16. Change color to E, and work only with it from here on. dc in each st around. (98 st total, all in E)
Round 17: *sc, sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc.* Repeat from * to * around. (98 st total, all in E)  If you worked Version 2 of this pattern, turn the wing inside out so that the “right” side is on the outside. Flatten the wing and line up the curves on the large side. Run a sl st along the edge to seal it shut. Finish off, and weave in loose ends.

Lower Wing (Make 2*)
Like the upper wings, these are made with color work in the round, using strands of D and E that are worked separately. 

 

*There are also 2 versions of this pattern, to produce spirals that turn in opposite directions. Make one of each version.

-Version 1: Work with dropped threads towards you, or rather towards the inside of the circle. The outside of the wing will be the “right” side and the inside will be the “wrong,” so plan accordingly when and where you drop your threads.
-Version 2:  Work with dropped threads away from you, or rather towards the outside of the work. The “wrong” side of the wing will be on the outside, and the “right” side will be on the inside, so plan accordingly when and where you drop your threads. When you finish this version of the pattern, turn it inside out so the “right”

Round 1: With D and E, ch 19. Start with a ch of D, and alternate colors with each ch. - your last ch should be D. Use a sl st to join the last ch with the first to make a loop. The D ch you end in is the last st of Round 1, and the first st of Round 2 will be an E st. (18 st total; 10 in color D and 8 in color E.)
Round 2: dc in each st around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (18 st total, 10 in color D and 8 in color E)
Round 3: *dc in next st, dc inc* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (28 st total, 20 in color D and 8 in color E)
Round 4: *dc in next 2 st, dc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches.(38 st total, 30 in color D and 8 in color E)
Round 5: *dc in next 3 st, dc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches.(48 st total, 40 in color D and 8 in color E)
Round 5: *dc in next 4 st, dc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches.(58 st total, 50 in color D and 8 in color E)
Round 6: *dc in next 5 st, dc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches.(68 st total, 60 in color D and 8 in color E)
Rounds 7-12: dc in each st around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (68 st total, 60 in color D and 8 in color E) Change color to E, and only work with it from here on.
Rounds 13-14: dc in each st around. (68) If you worked Version 2 of this pattern, turn the wing inside out so that the “right” side is on the outside. Flatten the wing and line up the curves on the large side. Run a sl st along the edge to seal it shut. Finish off, and weave in loose ends.

Antennae (Make 2)
Work in rows.
Row 1: With E, ch 15. (15)
Row 2: sl st in 3th loop from hook. Finish off.

Scarf (Optional, Make 1)
Work in rows.
Row 1: With F, ch 50. (50) ch 3, turn.
Row 2: dc in each st across, starting in 4th st from hook. (50) ch 1, turn.
Row 3: sl st in each st across. (50) Finish off, and weave in loose ends.

 

 

Assembly
1. Assemble the body. Pin and whip stitch the eyes, antennae, and mouth to the head, and the arms and legs to the head and body piece. Add a small amount of stuffing under the eyes and mouth as you sew to make them puff up a bit.

2. Assemble the wings by sewing together an upper and lower wing piece. It's a bit difficult to see in the pictures below due to the wings' pattern, but you should offset the lower wing a bit so that only half of its small, inner edge lines up with about half of the inner edge of the upper wing. Use a whip stitch to connect the two pieces in this overlap area. Make sure to pair pieces with spirals running in the same direction on each side. The side with the spirals facing downward will be "front" of the finished wing that attaches to the doll.

3. Use a whip stitch to sew the wings to the back of the body.

4. Add the details (eyes, fangs) to Butterfree’s face using the method of your choice. I used needle felting, but you can use whatever material and method you prefer - sewing down cut pieces of felt or fabric will work well.

5. If you made the scarf piece, tie it around Butterfree’s neck with a simple knot of your choice.

Conclusion 

If you liked this pattern, please feel free to make it and post on your blog of choice! All I ask is that you please provide credit to me (Danielle Delp) as the pattern author, and if you’re on Ravelry to add your photos to the pattern’s page - the more the merrier! Please do not sell dolls made from this pattern, to respect the intellectual property rights of the original artist that designed the character. If you like my work and would like to support my pattern-making, please consider subscribing to my Patreon or following me on Tumblr! Links to Ravelry, Tumblr, and Patreon are in the About Me section.

See you next time!

Pokemon #0840: Applin

Difficulty 2/5

This week’s pattern is Applin! Generation 8 of Pokemon is probably my least favorite. The Pokemon themselves are probably the least interesting for me, even though the world and character designs were genuinely great. I have very few favorite Pokemon from this generation, but Applin was definitely one of the best. Hydrapple even became one of my regular Pokemon in generation 9!

This is a small doll, but it's deceptively complex to put together due to the number of colors and bit of color work crochet needed to required to make it. The good news is you don't need much of each color, so it's a good doll for using up leftover yarn from other projects. I also used fabric scraps from other projects instead of fiberfill for stuffing, which gave the added benefit of a firm, rigid structure that helps the doll sit upright. He's a great addition to any desk!

Happy crafting!

Materials 


-Yarn. Use a worsted or aran weight in a material of your choice. I use acrylic for my doll patterns due to its firm weave which provides some structure, but you may use any material you wish. You will need:
For regular Applin: (A) ~30m of bright red, (B) ~30m of dark red, (C) ~30m of orange-red, (D) ~30m neon green, (E) ~30m of dark green, (F) ~10m of pale green, (G) ~10cm of black.
For shiny Applin: (A) ~30m of emerald green, (B) ~30m of leaf green, (C) ~30m of tan, (D) ~30m neon green, (E) ~30m of dark green, (F) ~10m of pale green, (G) ~10cm of black.

-4.0 mm (size G) crochet hook


-Fiberfill or crafting scraps for stuffing (I used shredded up fabric scraps from making curtains this time, like those pictured below)


-Yarn needle


-Pins


-Scraps of yarn for round markers

-Materials to make the details on the eyes using the method of your choice. You can glue or sew on fabric or felt scraps, embroider them on, or needle felt them. I used needle felting in the doll pictured.

Gauge: Gauge is not important for this work. With the given yarn and hook size, the finished doll will stand about 10 inches (25 cm) in height; adjust yarn and/or hook size if a bigger or smaller doll is desired. Just make sure your stitches are of a consistent size and tightness.

 

Notation (US crochet)


ch: chain


st: stitch


sc: single crochet


hdc: half-double crochet

dc: double crochet


slst: slip stitch


inc: increase stitch (perform 2 sc in the next stitch)


dec: decrease stitch (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through first loop. Yarn over again, pull through all 3 loops on hook.)

Pattern
Body (Make 1)
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (12) Join the rounds with a sl st. ch 1, turn.
Round 3: Working in front loops only, *sc in next st, then inc in following st.* Repeat from * to * around. (18) Return to working in whole loop at the end of the round, but continue working in the same direction for the remainder of the body - this will produce a small divet at the top where Applin’s eyes will go.
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 7: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Rounds 8-10: *sc in each st around. (42)
 

From here, we will be doing a bit of color work. Drop colors when not in use towards the center of the doll.
 

Round 11: *With B, sc in next st. With A, sc in next 5 st. With B, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * to the end of the round. (42)
Round 12: *With B, sc in next 2 st. With A, sc in next 3 st. With B, sc in next 2 st.* Repeat from * to * to the end of the round. (42) Finish off A, and continue on working only with B.
Rounds 13-16: sc in each st around. (42)
Round 17: *With B, sc in next 3 st. With C, sc in next st. With B, sc in next 3 st.* Repeat from * to * to the end of the round. (42)
Round 18: *With B, sc in next st. With C, sc in next 3 st. With B, sc in next 3 st.* Repeat from * to * to the end of the round. (42)
Round 19: *With C, sc in next 5 st. With B, sc in next 2 st.* Repeat from * to * to the end of the round. (42) Finish off B, and continue working only with C.
Round 20: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 21: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 22: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24) Begin to stuff, and continue to do so as you work.
Round 23: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 24: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Round 25: dec in each st around. (6)
Round 26: dec around until closed. Finish off, and weave in ends.
 

Eyes (Make 2)
Round 1: With D, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: sc in each st around. (6)
Round 3: inc in each st around. (12)
Round 4: sc in each st around. (12)
Round 5: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Rounds 6-10: sc in each st around. (18)
Round 11: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Round 12: dec in each st around. (6)
Round 13: dec around until closed. Finish off, leaving tail. Do not stuff.
 

Main tail piece (Make 1)
Round 1: With E, 5 sc in starter circle. (5)
Round 2: sc in each st around (5)
Rounds 3-4: inc in each st around. (10)
Round 5-9:  *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (15)
Round 10: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (20)
Rounds 11-13: sc in each st around. (20) Finish off, leaving tail. Stuff firmly.
 

Top tail piece (Make 1)

Work in rows.
Row 1: With F, ch 5. (5) ch 1, turn.
Row 2-7: sc in each st across. (5) ch 1, turn.
Row 8: dec, sc, dec. (3) ch 1, turn.
Rows 9-11: sc in each st across. (3) Finish off, leaving tail.

Assembly
1. Sew the eyes together by whip stitching along ~1cm of the bottom edge of each, as shown in the picture below.

 

2. Use a whip or applique stitch to attach the top tail piece to the main tail piece.

3. Pin and whip stitch the completed eyes and tail to the body.

 

4. Use your yarn needle to pull a ~10cm strand of G through around a stitch post near the tip of the tail. Remove the needle, then tie two simple loop knots to secure the strand in place. This will produce the "hairs" on the end of Applin's tail. Trim the "hair" until it is approximately 3cm long on each side.

5. Add details to Applin’s eyes using the method of your choice. I used needle felting in the doll pictured.

 

Conclusions

If you liked this pattern, please feel free to make it and post on your blog of choice! All I ask is that you please provide credit to me (Danielle Delp) as the pattern author, and if you’re on Ravelry to add your photos to the pattern’s page - the more the merrier! Please do not sell dolls made from this pattern, to respect the intellectual property rights of the original artist that designed the character. If you like my work and would like to support my pattern-making, please consider subscribing to my Patreon! Links to Ravelry and Patreon are in the About Me section above.

See you next week!