Hi everybody! I'm still here!
Over the past two months, things have been a bit crazy here. Between moving, starting a new job, and getting sick with a nasty case of the flu, I've barely had any time to crochet over the past two months.
But! Things have finally started to calm down a bit and I've finally unpacked all of my crochet gear. In the next week, keep an eye out for a pattern for my long-overdue Cheburaska amigurumi. I also got ahold of some lovely yellow yarn the other day, so I'm thinking I may make a Pikachu doll as the next Pokemon doll.
Thank you all for keeping up your support while I've been away!
Wednesday, September 24, 2014
Wednesday, July 23, 2014
Pokemon #131: Lapras
Difficulty: 4/5 (Avancned)
Lapras is one of my favorite Pokemon, and I was thrilled when I finally got my hands on some yarn of the correct color to make her body. My apologies for the delay with this week's post, but figuring out the complexities of this doll took a little longer than usual. The pieces of the doll aren't too difficult to make, but assembling it does require some experience with somewhat difficult crochet and sewing techniques. If you've made a few complicated dolls before, you should be fine. If you need any help, have a correction to make, or would just like to leave a comment as always feel free to email me at 2DCuttlefish@gmail.com or leave a comment in the comment section at the end of this page.
Materials
-Yarn (in addition to the quantities below, you will also need a small amount of black yarn for detail embroidery)
- For regular Lapras: (A) 1 6-oz skein in light blue, (B) 1/4 6-oz skein in gray, and (C) 1/2 6-oz skein off-white
- For shiny Lapras: (A) 1 6-oz skein in orchid, (B) 1/4 6-oz skein in gray, and (C) 1/2 6-oz skein in gold
-4.5
mm (size 7) crochet hook
-Fiberfill
– I recommend a nice, soft variety that's good for stuffed animals
-Yarn needle
-Pins
-Scraps
of
felt, loose fabric, etc. in white and black to make the eyes.
You can also make them using needle felting, if you know how –
that's the way I did it for the example doll shown in the photos.
-Scraps
of yarn for round markers
Gauge: Gauge is not important for this work. With the given yarn and hook size, the finished doll will stand about 10 inches (25.4 cm) in height; adjust yarn and/or hook size if a bigger or smaller doll is desired. Just make sure your stitches are of a consistent size and tightness.
Notation (US crochet)
ch:
chain
st:
stitch
sc:
single crochet
hdc:
half-double crochet
slst:
slip stitch
inc:
increase stitch (perform 2 sc in the next stitch of the work)
dec:
decrease stitch (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull
through the stitch. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull
through first loop. Yarn over again, pull through all 3 loops on
hook.)
*Note:
You do not need to use the same brand or colors of yarn I used, but
you should try and pick a 100% acrylic yarn for this doll. Acrylic
yarn is generally best for amigurumi dolls as it holds the stiff
weave required to maintain the structure of the doll. This is
especially true for large dolls like this one, whose weight may cause
non-acrylic yarns to sag and lose shape over time.
Torso and Tail
Round 1: With A, 8 sc in starter circle. (8)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (32)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (40)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Round 7: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (56)
Round 8: *sc in next 6 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (64)
Round 9: *sc in next 7 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (72)
Round 10: *sc in next 8 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (80)
Rounds 11-27: sc in each st around. (80)
Round 28: *sc in next 8 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (72)
Rounds 29-30: sc in each st around. (72)
Round 31: *sc in next 7 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (64)
Rounds 32-33: sc in each st around. (64)
Round 34: *sc in next 6 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (56)
Rounds 35-36: sc in each st around. (56)
Round 37: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
*Begin to stuff, and continue to do so until you finish.
Round 38: sc in each st around. (48)
Round 39: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (40)
Round 40: sc in each st around. (40)
Round 41: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (32)
Round 42: sc in each st around. (32)
Round 43: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 44: sc in each st around. (24)
Round 45: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (16)
Round 46: dec around until closed.
Finish off, leaving trail.
Neck
Round 1: 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Rounds 6-17: sc in each st around. (30)
Round 18: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 19: sc in each st around. (36)
Round 20: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Round 21: sc in each st around. (42)
Round 22: *sc in next 6 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Round 23: sc in each st around. (48)
Stuff firmly. Finish off, leaving trail.
Head
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Rounds 7-10: sc in each st around (36)
Round 11: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 12: sc in each st around. (30)
Round 13: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Rounds 14-15: sc in each st around. (24)
*Begin to stuff firmly, and continue to do so as you work.
Round 15: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 16: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Round 17: dec around until closed.
Finish off, leaving trail.
Front Flippers (Make 2)
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Rounds 7-11: sc in each st around. (36)
Round 12: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Rounds 13-14: sc in each st around. (30)
*Begin stuffing lightly. You don't want to put in enough to completely fill the flipper; there should just be enough to give it some shape.
Round 15: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 16: sc in each st around. (24)
Round 17: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 18: sc in each st around. (18)
Round 19: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Round 20: dec around until closed.
Finish off, leaving trail. Flatten the piece.
Back Flippers (Make 2)
Round 1: 6 sc in starter circle (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Rounds 5-8: sc in each st around. (24)
Round 9: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Rounds 10-11: sc in each st around. (18)
*Begin stuffing lightly. You don't want to put in enough to completely fill the flipper; there should just be enough to give it some shape.
Round 12: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Round 13: dec around until closed.
Finish off, leaving trail. Flatten the piece.
Ears (Make 2)
Round 1: With A, 5 sc in starter circle. (5)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (10)
Rounds 3-16: sc in each st around. (10) As you work this part, stuff the ear piece
Round 17: dec in each st around until closed.
Finish off, leaving trail. Curl the piece, as shown below, and sew through it to secure the curl.
Horn
Round 1: With A, 4 sc in starter circle. (4)
Round 2: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (6)
Round 3: sc in each st around. (6)
Round 4: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (9)
Finish off, leaving trail.
Shell Base
Round 1: With B, 8 sc in starter circle (8)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (32)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (40)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Round 7: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (56)
Round 8: *sc in next 6 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (64)
Round 9: *sc in next 7 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (72)
Round 10: *sc in next 8 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (80)
Round 11: *sc in next 9 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (88)
Round 12: *sc in next 10 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (96)
Rounds 13-15: sc in each st around. (96)
Round 16: *sc in next 10 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (88)
Round 15: *sc in next 9 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (80)
Round 14: *sc in next 8 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (72)
Round 15: *sc in next 7 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (64)
Round 16: *sc in next 6 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (56)
Round 17: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Round 18: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (56)
Rounds 19-20: sc in each st around. (56)
Round 21: *sc in next 6 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (64)
Round 22: sc in each st around. (64)
*Begin to stuff lightly. Much like the flipper pieces, you will be flattening this piece before sewing it to the main doll.There should be just enough filling to smooth out the shape of the shell, but not enough to fill it out.
Round 23: *sc in next 6 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (56)
Round 24: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Round 25: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 26: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (27)
Round 27: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 28: dec in each st around until closed.
Finish off, leaving trail. Cut a length of black yarn. Flatten the shell, and use the black yarn and a yarn needle to embroider the black rim of the shell using a backstitch. You will want to pull the yarn completely through the shell piece as you do this, instead of just embroidering along the upper side of the shell; this will shape the piece and create the shell's distinct rim.
Shell Spikes (Make 9)
Round 1: With B, 4 sc in starter circle. (4)
Round 2: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (6)
Round 3: sc in each st around. (6)
Round 4: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (9)
Round 5: *sc in each st around. (9)
Finish off, leaving trail.
Belly
This piece will actually be 5 separate pieces which you will sew together as you attach them to the doll. The main piece will extend from under Lapras's chin to the tip of her tail, similar to the belly piece for my Dragonite pattern. The other pieces will be sewn to the undersides of their respective flippers. All of the pieces for the belly will be worked in regular crochet rows, instead of a spiral round.
1. Main Piece
Row 1: With C, ch 4. (4) Turn.
Row 2: In 2nd st from hook, sc. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (3) ch 1, turn.
Row 3: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next st. 2 sc in final st of row (5) ch 1, turn.
Row 4: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 3 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (7) ch 1, turn.
Row 5: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (7) ch 1, turn.
Row 6: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 5 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (9) ch 1, turn.
Row 7: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 7 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (11) ch 1, turn.
Row 8: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (11) ch 1, turn.
Rows 9-23: Repeat row 8. (11)
Row 24: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (13) ch 1, turn.
Row 25: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 11 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (15) ch 1, turn.
Row 26: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (15) ch 1, turn.
Row 27: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 13 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (17) ch 1, turn.
Row 28: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (17) ch 1, turn.
Row 29: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 15 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (19) ch 1, turn.
Row 30: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (19) ch 1, turn.
Row 31: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 17 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (21) ch 1, turn.
Row 32: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (21) ch 1, turn.
Row 33: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 19 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (23) ch 1, turn.
Row 34: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (23) ch 1, turn.
Row 35: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 21 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (25) ch 1, turn.
Row 36: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (25) ch 1, turn.
Rows 37-52: Repeat row 36.
Row 53: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 21 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (23) ch 1, turn.
Row 54: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (23) ch 1, turn.
Row 55: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 19 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (21) ch 1, turn.
Row 56: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (21) ch 1, turn.
Rows 57-72: Repeat Row 56.
Row 73: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 17 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (19)
ch 1, turn.
Row 74: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (19) ch 1, turn.
Row 75: Repeat row 74.
Row 76: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 15 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (17)
ch 1, turn.
Row 77: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 13 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (15)
ch 1, turn.
Row 78: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 11 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (13)
ch 1, turn.
Row 79: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 9 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (11) ch 1, turn.
Row 80: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 7 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (9) ch 1, turn.
Row 81: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 5 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (7) ch 1, turn.
Row 82: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 3 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (5) ch 1, turn.
Row 83: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next st. dec over last 2 st of row. (3)
Finish off, leaving a long trail.
2. Underside of front flippers (Make 2)
Row 1: With C, ch 7. (7) Turn.
Row 2: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (6) ch 1, turn.
Row 3: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 4 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (8) ch 1, turn.
Row 4: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (8) ch 1, turn.
Row 5: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 6 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (10) ch 1, turn.
Row 6: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (10) ch 1, turn.
Row 7: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. sc in next 8 st. 2 sc in final st of row. (12) ch 1, turn.
Row 8: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (12) ch 1, turn.
Rows 9-14: Repeat Row 8.
Row 15: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 8 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (10) ch 1, turn.
Row 16: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (10) ch 1, turn.
Row 17: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 6 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (8) ch 1, turn.
Row 18: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (8) ch 1, turn.
Row 19: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 4 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (6) ch 1, turn.
Row 20: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (6) ch 1, turn.
Row 21: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. sc in next 2 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (4) ch 1, turn.
Row 22: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc to the end of the row. (4) ch 1, turn.
Row 23: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. dec over last 2 st of row. (2) ch 1, turn.
Row 24: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec over the 2 st of the row.
Finish off, leaving a long trail.
3. Underside of back flippers (Make 2)
Row 1: With C, ch 5. (5) Turn.
Row 2: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc in each remaining st of row. (4) ch 1, turn.
Row 3: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. st in next 2 st. 2 sc in last st of row. (6) ch 1, turn.
Row 4: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc in each remaining st of row. (6) ch 1, turn.
Row 5: 2 sc in 2nd st from hook. st in next 4 st. 2 sc in last 2 st of row. (8) ch 1, turn.
Row 6: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc in each remaining st of row. (8) ch 1, turn.
Rows 7-11: Repeat Row 6.
Row 12: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. st in next 4 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (6) ch 1, turn.
Row 13: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. st in next 2 st. dec over last 2 st of row. (4) ch 1, turn.
Row 14: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec. dec over last 2 st of row. (2) ch 1, turn.
Row 15: Beginning in 2nd st from hook, dec over the 2 st of the row.
Finish off, leaving a long trail.
Assembly: First, assemble the head pieces (ears, horn, and head) and pin them together, as shown below. When you're happy with the arrangement, use a yarn needle to sew them securely into place using a whipstitch.
Pin and sew the head to the neck using the whipstitch. Next, pin the completed head/neck piece and the four flipper pieces to the torso piece of the doll. As shown in my example photos, you want the flippers to be tilted slightly back, rather than sticking straight out from the body. When you are happy with the arrangement, sew everything together with a firm whipstitch.
Next, pin the completed shell base to the body and sew it into place when you're happy with the position. Pin each of the nine shell spikes to the shell base, and sew them to the shell. You don't need to place the spikes precisely where I did; my placement is based off Lapras' 3D model from the Pokemon X/Y games.
Finishing Touches: Use scraps of fabric, felt, etc. or needle felting to make Lapras' eyes. The basic design for the left eye is shown below; simply mirror it to make the right eye.
The base is white, while the iris is black with a white "shine" area.
And that's all! Congratulations, you've finished your Lapras!
Further images have been provided below for you to reference while creating your doll.
Saturday, July 12, 2014
Pokemon #100: Voltorb
Difficulty: 1/5 (Beginner)
We've got an easy pattern today, for a Voltorb doll! The shape is a basic sphere, and is well-suited for a beginner's first amigurumi. This is a small doll too - it will easily fit in the palm of your hand. At some point, I'm going to adapt this pattern to make a bunch of Pokeball patterns; when they're done, they'll be put up on the blog.
If you have any questions about this or the pattern, or have a request for a doll you'd like me to make a pattern for, please feel free to contact me at 2DCuttlefish@gmail.com
Materials
-Yarn (I didn't include quantities because this is a small doll; you will need less than an 1/8 of a 6-oz skein in each color. In addition to the quantities below, you will also need a small amount of black yarn for detail embroidery)
- For regular Voltorb: (A) dark red and (B) white
- For shiny Voltorb: (A) blue and (B) white
-4.5
mm (size 7) crochet hook
-Fiberfill
– I recommend a nice, soft variety that's good for stuffed animals
-Yarn needle
-Pins
-Scraps
of
felt, loose fabric, etc. in white and black to make the eyes.
You can also make them using needle felting, if you know how –
that's the way I did it for the example doll shown in the photos.
-Scraps
of yarn for round markers
Gauge:
Gauge is not important for this work. With the given yarn and hook
size, the finished doll will stand about 2.5 inches (6.35 cm) in
height; adjust yarn and/or hook size if a bigger or smaller doll is
desired. Just make sure your stitches are of a consistent size and
tightness.
Notation
(US crochet)
ch:
chain
st:
stitch
sc:
single crochet
hdc:
half-double crochet
slst:
slip stitch
inc:
increase stitch (perform 2 sc in the next stitch of the work)
dec:
decrease stitch (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull
through the stitch. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull
through first loop. Yarn over again, pull through all 3 loops on
hook.)
*Note:
You do not need to use the same brand or colors of yarn I used, but
you should try and pick a 100% acrylic yarn for this doll. Acrylic
yarn is generally best for amigurumi dolls as it holds the stiff
weave required to maintain the structure of the doll. This is
especially true for large dolls like this one, whose weight may cause
non-acrylic yarns to sag and lose shape over time.
Body
Round 1: With A, 8 sc in starter circle. (8)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (32)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (40)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Round 7: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (56)
Rounds 8-11: sc in each st around. (56) Switch to B at the end of Round 11.
Rounds 12-15: sc in each st around.
Round 16: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Round 17: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (40)
Round 18: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (32)
Round 19: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Begin stuffing firmly, and continue to do so as you work.
Round 20: *sc in next st, dec.* (16)
Round 21: dec around until closed.
Finish off. Clean up ends.
Finishing Touches: The only detail you need to add to Voltorb is his eyes. They are a simple shape, as shown below:
The base is white, with a black slit for an iris. You can use cut felt or fabric to make them. As usual, my doll's details are made with needle-felting, since I like the look of it better. Once you've made the eyes, using some black yarn and a yarn needle to embroider Voltorb's angry eyebrows on.
Sunday, July 6, 2014
Pokemon #045: Vileplume
Difficulty: 3/5 (Moderate)
Tonight's update will be for a nicely sized Vileplume doll. This doll might look tough, but all the pieces are very basic shapes; the difficulty is entirely in the assembly. Before we go any further, I'd like to address a small mistake I made when making the prototype doll you see above. I accidentally sewed the petals a little too high on one side; I didn't realize this until the doll was finished. As a result, the yellow ring at the center of the doll was too big, and looked a little awkward when it was sewed to the final piece. Yours should fit properly given the instructions below, but feel free to contact me to make a correction if they don't. As always, you can also send me questions and comments at 2DCuttlefish@gmail.com.
Materials
-Yarn (in addition to the quantities below, you will also need a small amount of black yarn for detail embroidery)
- For regular Vileplume: (A) 1/2 6-oz skein in dark blue, (B) small amount of gold, (C) 1/2 6-oz skein in pink, and (D) small amount of yellow.
- For shiny Vileplume: (A)1/2 6-oz skein in dark green, (B) small amount of gold, (C) 1/2 6-oz skein in light yellow, and (D) small amount of brown.
-4.5
mm (size 7) crochet hook
-Fiberfill
– I recommend a nice, soft variety that's good for stuffed animals
-Tapestry
needle
-Pins
-Scraps
of
felt, loose fabric, etc. in red and white (orange and white for the shiny alternate-color version) to make the eyes and petal details, respectively.
You can also make them using needle felting, if you know how –
that's the way I did it for the example doll shown in the photos.
-Scraps
of yarn for round markers
Gauge:
Gauge is not important for this work. With the given yarn and hook
size, the finished doll will stand about 8 inches (20.32 cm) in
height; adjust yarn and/or hook size if a bigger or smaller doll is
desired. Just make sure your stitches are of a consistent size and
tightness.
Notation
(US crochet)
ch:
chain
st:
stitch
sc:
single crochet
hdc:
half-double crochet
slst:
slip stitch
inc:
increase stitch (perform 2 sc in the next stitch of the work)
dec:
decrease stitch (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull
through the stitch. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull
through first loop. Yarn over again, pull through all 3 loops on
hook.)
*Note:
You do not need to use the same brand or colors of yarn I used, but
you should try and pick a 100% acrylic yarn for this doll. Acrylic
yarn is generally best for amigurumi dolls as it holds the stiff
weave required to maintain the structure of the doll. This is
especially true for large dolls like this one, whose weight may cause
non-acrylic yarns to sag and lose shape over time.
Body
Round 1: With A, 8 sc in starter circle (8)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (32)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (40)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Round 7: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (56)
Round 8: *sc in next 6 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (64)
Round 9: *sc in next 7 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (72)
Rounds 10-22: sc in each st around. (72)
Round 23: * sc in next 7 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (64)
Rounds 24-25: sc in each st around. (64)
Round 26: *sc in next 6 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (56)
Rounds 27-28: sc in each st around. (56) Switch to B at the end of Round 28. This is a good time to start stuffing; continue to do so until you finish the piece.
Round 29: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Round 30: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (40)
Round 31: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (32)
Round 32: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 33: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (16)
Round 34: dec in each st around until closed.
Finish off, leaving trail.
Petals (Make 5)
Round 1: With C, 8 sc in starter circle (8)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 7: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around.
Rounds 8-12: sc in each st around.
Round 13: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 14: sc in each st around.
Round 15: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 16: sc in each st around.
Round 17: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around.
Rounds 18-19 sc in each st around.
Round 20: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 21: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around.
Finish off, leaving a long trail. Do not stuff yet. Flatten the petal and use a yarn needle and the trail to whipstitch along the crease around the edge of the petal; this will create the edge of the petal and help it hold a flattened shape.
Lightly stuff the completed petal. Be careful to distribute the stuffing evenly.
Arms (Make 2)
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Rounds 4-9: sc in each st around (18)
Finish off, leaving trail. Stuff firmly.
Legs (Make 2)
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rounds 3-6: sc in each st around (12)
Stuff firmly. Finish off, leaving trail.
Feet (Make 2)
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around (18)
Rounds 4-7: sc in each st around, (18)
Round 8: *sc in next st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Round 9: dec around until closed.
Finish off, leaving trail.
Flower Center (Make 1)
This is the "ring" that goes around the center of Vileplume's flower. It's length will vary depending on how you sew the petals to your doll's body. For this reason, I recommend you first attach and sew the petal pieces to the doll. Instructions for this are found in the "Assembly" section at the end of the pattern. When you've done this, it will look a bit like this:
Row 1: With D, ch 40. (40) This should be just enough to encircle the center area of the flower. If it isn't, add or remove ch until it does. When you're happy, turn.
Row 2: sc in 2nd st from hook. Continue to sc in each st to the end of the row (39) ch 1, turn.
Rows 3-4: Repeat Row 2 (39)
Finish off, leaving a long trail. Fold the piece lengthwise and, using a whipstitch, sew the top of Row 4 to the bottom of Row 1. Finally, sew the ends of the piece to each other to make it into a ring. Do not cut the trail yet; you will be using it to sew the ring to the doll.
Assembly: If you haven't yet, pin and attach the petals to the body piece. They should be attached at Round 28 of the body, where the color changes from A to B. Refer to the picture provided in the "Flower Center" instructions for reference for this. Finish the flower part by sewing the Flower Center piece around the edge of the petals, as seen below:
Next, sew the leg and foot pieces together, as seen below:
Pin the legs and feet to the doll, and sew into place. More reference images for this assembly are available at the end of this pattern.
Finishing Touches
Eyes: Using red fabric, felt, etc., make Vileplume's eyes. The shape of the eyes is a simple circle. You can also make the eyes from needle felting and red wool roving, if you know how. This is how I made the eyes in the example doll.
Mouth: Using a yarn needle and black yarn, embroider a smiling mouth onto Vileplume's face.
Petal Details: Using white fabric, felt, etc., make the spots on Vileplume's petals. This part is a bit freeform, as the number, size, and shape of the spots is irregular. Add 4-7 spots of whatever size and shape you desire to each petal piece. I used wool roving and needle felting to make the details on my doll; feel free to use this method if you know how.
Further images have been provided below for you to reference while creating your doll.
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