Tuesday, June 3, 2025

Pokemon#0012: Butterfree

Difficulty: 4/5

This week’s pattern is Butterfree! One of my original Pokemon favorites, it was actually the first Pokemon card I ever owned. This pattern took some time to put together, mostly because of the wings. I figured out and made every other piece of the doll within a day, but getting the color work on the wings to look good took a full week of trial and error, crocheting and unraveling, testing patterns in the round vs rows, etc. I settled on double crochet in the round with a spiraling pattern for the veins, which also gives a nice texture contrast with the body - Butterfree’s wings are supposed to be covered in dusty scales, after all. It also provides some structure to keep the wings from being too floppy.

A nice little detail I added was working the upper and lower parts of the wings separately, and only sewing them together where they meet the body. This allows the wings to retract when you want the doll to sit down, or when space is limited. I also included a pattern for an optional little scarf accessory.  I decided to whip it up since I had some extra golden yarn laying around. I'm sure the old-school Pokemon fans in the audience will appreciate why =D
 
Happy crafting!
 
 
Materials
-Yarn. Use a worsted or aran weight in a material of your choice. I use acrylic for my doll patterns due to its firm weave which provides some structure, but you may use any material you wish. You will need:
For regular Butterfree: (A) ~150m of royal purple, (B) ~30m of cyan blue, (C) ~20m of red, (D) ~400m white, (E) ~200m black
For shiny Butterfree: (A) ~150m of lilac purple, (B) ~30m of coral pink, (C) ~20m of neon green, (D) ~400m pale pink, (E) ~200m black.
***If you are making the optional scarf, you will also need (F) ~20m of gold***
-4.0 mm (size G) crochet hook
-Fiberfill or crafting scraps for stuffin

-Yarn needle

-Pins

-Scraps of yarn for round markers
-Materials to make the details on the face using the method of your choice. You can glue or sew on fabric or felt scraps, embroider them on, or needle felt them. I used needle felting in the doll pictured.


Gauge: Gauge is not important for this work. With the given yarn and hook size, the finished doll will stand about 13 inches (33 cm) in height from the top of the wings to the bottom; adjust yarn and/or hook size if a bigger or smaller doll is desired. Just make sure your stitches are of a consistent size and tightness.
 
 
Notation (US crochet)

ch: chain

st: stitch

sc: single crochet

hdc: half-double crochet
dc: double crochet

slst: slip stitch

inc: increase stitch (perform 2 sc in the next stitch)

dc inc: double crochet increase stitch (perform 2 dc in the next stitch)
dec: decrease stitch (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through first loop. Yarn over again, pull through all 3 loops on hook.)
 
 
Pattern
Head and Body (Make 1)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With A, 6 sc in starter circle. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: *sc in next st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 4: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 5: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 6: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 7: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Round 8: *sc in next 6 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (48)
Rounds 9-16 sc in each st around. (48)
Round 17: *sc in next 6 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Round 18: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 19: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 20: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 21: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 22: *sc in next 2 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (24)
Round 23: *sc in next 3 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 23: *sc in next 4 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 24: *sc in next 5 st, inc.* Repeat from * to * around. (42)
Rounds 25-33: sc in each st around. (42)
Round 34: *sc in next 5 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (36)
Round 35: *sc in next 4 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 36: *sc in next 3 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (24) Begin to stuff, and continue to do so as you work.
Round 37: *sc in next 2 st, dec.* Repeat from * to * around. (18)
Round 38: *sc in next st, dec*. Repeat from * to * around. (12)
Round 39: dec in each st around. (6)
Round 40: dec around until closed. (6) Finish off, and weave in loose ends.

Feet (Make 2)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With B, 5 sc in starter circle. (5)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (10)
Rounds 3-11: sc in each st around (10). Add a small amount of stuffing inside the foot.
Round 12: dec in each st around (5)
Round 13: dec around until closed. Finish off, leaving a tail.

Arms (Make 2)
Work in rows.
Row 1: With B, ch 5. (5) ch 3, turn.
Row 2: tc, starting in 4th loop from hook. sl st, tc, sl st, tc. (5) finish off, leaving tail.

Nose (Make 1)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With B, 5 sc in starter circle. (5)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (10)
Round 3: inc in each of next 2 st, sc in each of next 3 st, inc in each of next 2 st, sc in each of next 3 st. (14) Finish off, leaving a tail.

Eyes (Make 2)
Work in the round.
Round 1: With C, 6 sc in starter circle.
Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc. (18)
Round 4: sc in each st around. (18) Finish off, leaving tail.

Upper Wing (Make 2*)
These are made with color work in the round, using strands of D and E that are worked separately; when working with D, drop E and vice-versa. Do not join your rounds - you want the color work to make veins that spiral from the center. Do not finish off either color until the end. Use your color change method of your choice, but try to make it as seamless as possible to maintain the distinction between the different colored sections.

*You will want to make 2 pieces of this pattern. HOWEVER! There are 2 slightly different versions of this pattern that you will work for each piece. The purpose of this is to make the colored spiral of veins turn clockwise in one piece and counterclockwise in the other.
-Version 1: Work with dropped threads towards you, or rather towards the inside of the circle. The outside of the wing will be the “right” side and the inside will be the “wrong,” so plan accordingly when and where you drop your threads.
-Version 2:  Work with dropped threads away from you, or rather towards the outside of the work. The “wrong” side of the wing will be on the outside, and the “right” side will be on the inside, so plan accordingly when and where you drop your threads.

Round 1: With D and E, ch 29. Start with a ch of D, and alternate colors with each ch. - your last ch should be D. Use a sl st to join the last ch with the first to make a loop. The D ch you end in is the last st of Round 1, and the first st of Round 2 will be in an E st. (28 st total; 14 in color D and 14 in color E.)
Round 2: dc in each st around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (28 st total, 14 in color D and 14 in color E)
Round 3: *dc in next st, dc inc* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (42 st total, 28 in color D and 14 in color E)
Round 4: *dc in next st, dc inc in each of following 2 st.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (70 st total, 56 in color D and 14 in color E)
Rounds 5-9: dc in each st around. Use D in D st and E in E st. (70 st total, 56 in color D and 14 in color E)
Round 10: *dc in each of next 2 st, dc inc, dc in next st, dc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches.
(98 st total, 84 in color D and 14 in color E)
Rounds 11-13: dc in each st around. Use D in D st and E in E st. (98)
Rounds 14-15: *dc, sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, dc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (98 st total, 84 in color D and 14 in color E)
Round 16. Change color to E, and work only with it from here on. dc in each st around. (98 st total, all in E)
Round 17: *sc, sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc.* Repeat from * to * around. (98 st total, all in E)  If you worked Version 2 of this pattern, turn the wing inside out so that the “right” side is on the outside. Flatten the wing and line up the curves on the large side. Run a sl st along the edge to seal it shut. Finish off, and weave in loose ends.

Lower Wing (Make 2*)
Like the upper wings, these are made with color work in the round, using strands of D and E that are worked separately. 
 
*There are also 2 versions of this pattern, to produce spirals that turn in opposite directions. Make one of each version.
-Version 1: Work with dropped threads towards you, or rather towards the inside of the circle. The outside of the wing will be the “right” side and the inside will be the “wrong,” so plan accordingly when and where you drop your threads.
-Version 2:  Work with dropped threads away from you, or rather towards the outside of the work. The “wrong” side of the wing will be on the outside, and the “right” side will be on the inside, so plan accordingly when and where you drop your threads. When you finish this version of the pattern, turn it inside out so the “right”

Round 1: With D and E, ch 19. Start with a ch of D, and alternate colors with each ch. - your last ch should be D. Use a sl st to join the last ch with the first to make a loop. The D ch you end in is the last st of Round 1, and the first st of Round 2 will be an E st. (18 st total; 10 in color D and 8 in color E.)
Round 2: dc in each st around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (18 st total, 10 in color D and 8 in color E)
Round 3: *dc in next st, dc inc* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (28 st total, 20 in color D and 8 in color E)
Round 4: *dc in next 2 st, dc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches.(38 st total, 30 in color D and 8 in color E)
Round 5: *dc in next 3 st, dc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches.(48 st total, 40 in color D and 8 in color E)
Round 5: *dc in next 4 st, dc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches.(58 st total, 50 in color D and 8 in color E)
Round 6: *dc in next 5 st, dc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches.(68 st total, 60 in color D and 8 in color E)
Rounds 7-12: dc in each st around. Use D in D stitches and E in E stitches. (68 st total, 60 in color D and 8 in color E) Change color to E, and only work with it from here on.
Rounds 13-14: dc in each st around. (68) If you worked Version 2 of this pattern, turn the wing inside out so that the “right” side is on the outside. Flatten the wing and line up the curves on the large side. Run a sl st along the edge to seal it shut. Finish off, and weave in loose ends.

Antennae (Make 2)
Work in rows.
Row 1: With E, ch 15. (15)
Row 2: sl st in 3th loop from hook. Finish off.

Scarf (Optional, Make 1)
Work in rows.
Row 1: With F, ch 50. (50) ch 3, turn.
Row 2: dc in each st across, starting in 4th st from hook. (50) ch 1, turn.
Row 3: sl st in each st across. (50) Finish off, and weave in loose ends.
 
 
Assembly
1. Assemble the body. Pin and whip stitch the eyes, antennae, and mouth to the head, and the arms and legs to the head and body piece. Add a small amount of stuffing under the eyes and mouth as you sew to make them puff up a bit.
2. Assemble the wings by sewing together an upper and lower wing piece. It's a bit difficult to see in the pictures below due to the wings' pattern, but you should offset the lower wing a bit so that only half of its small, inner edge lines up with about half of the inner edge of the upper wing. Use a whip stitch to connect the two pieces in this overlap area. Make sure to pair pieces with spirals running in the same direction on each side. The side with the spirals facing downward will be "front" of the finished wing that attaches to the doll.
3. Use a whip stitch to sew the wings to the back of the body.

4. Add the details (eyes, fangs) to Butterfree’s face using the method of your choice. I used needle felting, but you can use whatever material and method you prefer - sewing down cut pieces of felt or fabric will work well.

5. If you made the scarf piece, tie it around Butterfree’s neck with a simple knot of your choice.


Conclusion 
If you liked this pattern, please feel free to make it and post on your blog of choice! All I ask is that you please provide credit to me (Danielle Delp) as the pattern author, and if you’re on Ravelry to add your photos to the pattern’s page - the more the merrier! Please do not sell dolls made from this pattern, to respect the intellectual property rights of the original artist that designed the character. If you like my work and would like to support my pattern-making, please consider subscribing to my Patreon or following me on Tumblr! Links to Ravelry, Tumblr, and Patreon are in the About Me section.

See you next time!

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